Skincare Basics
Dr. Katya Panova, Dermatologist & Nutritionist in Residence for Essènci Skincare
Why and how does our skin require such gentle care?
Having worked for a long time in aesthetic medicine and dealing with skin problems, I came to the conclusion that the health of our skin is closely related to our nutrition. Skin, like a litmus test, reflects the inner workings of our body. In studying nutrition, I have been able to broaden my perspective around problem solving when it comes to the needs of our skin. Today my approach for healthy skin is a more holistic one. Through these series of articles, I am happy to share my knowledge and experience with you.
Let us first begin by talking about the skin. It is the largest organ of the body and acts as a powerful barrier that separates our internal environment, ie the internal processes of the body: hormones, our nutrition, the work of the gastrointestinal tract, the quality of our sleep, and stress from the external one ( the harmful effects of the environment, UV rays, air humidity, poor cosmetic care, pathogenic bacterias) which is why it requires such meticulous and gentle care.
Proper hydration is the key to healthier and younger-looking skin. Of course, we must not forget about our lifestyle and nutrition, since they also affect the condition of the body and the skin in particular; however, proper skincare increases the protective functions of the skin, making it more radiant.
How does this happen?
Without moisture, the surface cells of the skin become more fragile and the lipid layer is depleted, increasing the conditions for skin damage. Our skin becomes even more vulnerable to the environment, and the protective properties of the skin weaken. The natural exfoliation process is disrupted, peeling becomes noticeable, worsening the appearance of our skin.
When you use quality moisturizers, you help rebuild the skin's lipid barrier. Your skincare products have the ability to trap water inside the skin to help produce a natural moisturizing factor.
Hydration is essential for the proper development of healthy skin cells and because of that natural exfoliation begins to occur without interruption, thereby bringing the skin cell cycle back to normal.
Because dehydration of the skin is largely due to external factors, you need to start by addressing the effects of environmental exposure to the surface of the skin in order to keep it hydrated. Thus, applying products that seal moisture on the surface of the skin is a first step. And on a side note, for those looking for natural skincare ingredients in their beauty products, essential oils (why) can be an excellent choice.
So what steps can we take to keep in our daily skincare routine and lifestyle that will help us maintain hydration in our skin?
Do not use hot water when washing your face but rather lukewarm. Hot water may help to more easily remove pollution from your skin but unfortunately, it also removes the precious and ever so necessary lipid barrier on the skin’s surface at the same time.
Use facial washes or cleaning products that are PH neutral, thus free from alkali and aggressive components such as alcohol, high concentrations of acids and surfactants that can damage the lipid barrier.
Use a mild exfoliating agent once a week. They help the skin get rid of dead keratinized scales from its surface. This step in your skincare routine will help your primary moisturizer penetrate deeper.
Use a humidifier to keep the moisture in the air and thus in your skin. In dry air, the skin loses most of its water through evaporation. We can especially feel this clearly during cold seasons when the heating is operating at full capacity.
Spend less time in direct sunlight. Prolonged exposure to the sun also activates the evaporation of water from the skin's surface which causes more dehydration.
Review your diet and lifestyle. Smoking, alcohol, and sugar all contribute to the complex aging process, and affects the hydration of the skin. Incorporate into your daily diet foods that contain healthy fats: avocados, oils, nuts, coconut products, fish, eggs, ghee. These products undoubtedly will help to maintain the skin's water-lipid balance.
When talking about the dehydration of the skin, it is always suggested to drink enough water. Of course, water is very beneficial for various reasons-health, metabolic processes, the proper functioning of cells, etc but in fact, there is not any research that backs up this assertion that there is a direct link between the hydration of the skin and the consumption of water. When we drink water, it does not automatically reach the skin. Hence, the skin needs external moisture, and thus the right products will have the most pronounced moisturizing effect on your skin.
Dr. Katya Panova is a Russian trained dermatologist in the process of obtaining her certification as a nutritionist at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition in New York. She has worked in skincare clinics in Voronezh, Russia and taught cosmetology and dermatology at Voronezh Medical Academy. She obtained the equivalent of an MD from Rostov Medical University in the department of cosmetology, plastic surgery and regenerative medicine, and training in phototherapy as the method of treating acne from Peoples’ Friendship University of Russia (RUDN). Dr. Panova has also been published in numerous international scientific magazines. Today, she currently lives in New York with her husband.